Relocating to Kenya from the U.S. - Important Tips for Black Expats

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Updated April 8, 2024.

I remember feeling like my move to Kenya would be a major chapter in my life. I applied for a seed grant to launch my first nonprofit project in Dadaab, the largest refugee camp in Kenya, two months before I arrived. I was also invited to interview for a potential full-time job based in Nairobi around the same time. To my surprise, I got an email saying I was awarded the grant exactly 12 hours before getting on my flight to start my new job in the capital of Kenya.

Fate must have brought me to Kenya. Frankly, this opportunity was the boost I needed for my emotional health after I was laid off twelve months earlier. I was excited for the chance to start over in a place I’d never visited, where I’d rebuild my career and friendships from scratch.

Looking back, I see both how the experience made me better, and where it left me wanting. Overall, Kenya is one of my top countries to live in and one of the best places to travel as a Black American expat. Here are some tips I’d give to prepare for moving abroad. 

Views from Voi Safari Lodge in Kenya.

Understanding Visas & Freedom of Movement

When I first moved to Kenya in 2019, Americans were allowed to receive what’s called a visa-on-arrival. That meant you don’t have to apply in advance for permission to land and stay in Kenya…if you’re planning to stay for up to 90 days.

Now, the rules have changed. Since 2020, the Kenyan government now requires U.S. citizens to apply online for an electronic or “eVisa” before arriving in Kenya. The website to do so is here.

The type of visa you receive will determine how freely you can move in and out of Kenya:

• A single-entry visa means you must pay every time you leave and re-enter Kenya as a tourist. This visa costs $51 and allows you to stay in Kenya for up to 90 days. If you need to extend your stay, just visit this site.

• A multiple-entry visa is ideal if you want the freedom to travel to other countries and come back to Kenya as frequently as you wish. With this option, the government can approve you for a three-month (90 days) to 12-month stay. This also makes the multiple-entry visa a great option for digital nomads, who may want to settle in Kenya long-term before moving to their next location. It costs $101 to file an application.

Here’s where it gets tricky:

• If you want to visit Rwanda and Uganda, specifically, during your time in Kenya, you’d apply for the East African Tourist visa. The cost is the same as the multiple-entry visa, but it’s only valid for up to 90 days.  I didn’t see any information on extending the expiration date on this visa. So my guess is that this is a better option for visitors versus folks planning to live in Kenya for an extended period of time.

Now to make it more complicated: 

While you can stay in Kenya long-term via the multiple-entry visa, you technically aren’t allowed to work in Kenya without a Kenyan work permit. For example, you could use the multiple-entry visa to conduct a business trip (e.g. conference, client meetings, etc.) but not for self-employment or taking a job with a company registered in Kenya. In my opinion, this is a very gray area. 

If you wanted to play it safe, apply for a work permit. There are different classes (or categories) based on the type of industry you’ll work in. For Class D (general employment), it costs 10,000 Kshs (~$82) as of the published date for this blog post. It also involves submitting your resume/CV, a Tax Compliance Certificate, and a signed letter of proof of employment.

I’d highly recommend hiring an immigration agency or consultant to help you with this process, so you can get your paperwork submitted the right way the first time (saving you money and headache).

Best Options for Apartments

Airbnb vs. Lease

Let’s say you finally sorted all the legal stuff out. Good for you! 

If I were you, I wouldn’t want too much stress figuring out the next step—deciding where to live.

For me, Airbnb was the best option. I was fortunate to find a host that kept months blocked out for my unit every month until I was ready to renew my stay. The alternative was paying a minimum of five months' rent upfront to a landlord I just met, in a country where I knew no one and didn’t speak the local language.

I hate to say this, but being a Nigerian (and knowing what goes on there) made me extremely distrustful of most legal systems in Africa. That may sound problematic, and I don’t mean to pass judgment on Kenya as an outsider. I’m just sharing my honest, and humble, opinion.

My living room in my Nairobi apartment.

Airbnb isn’t perfect. I’ve had issues with how easily people can post fraudulent properties on Airbnb’s website. However, the company has a 100% money-back guarantee if a guest is deceived by a listing. Also, you have the opportunity to read reviews from past guests before booking a property, which adds a greater sense of security when putting money down.

Obviously, I’m going to tell you to book with my amazing host Damaris! She has several units in her apartment complex, but here’s one to start. Feel free to message her and tell her I sent you!

I also understand that for some of you, it might be better to have in writing that you have an apartment for as long as needed, without worrying month-to-month about a host changing her mind. If you opt for a lease, here’s what you need to know:

• Work with a licensed realtor that’s highly recommended by someone you trust. Yes, you’ll have to pay an extra fee. Compared to the money you could lose by fraud, I’d say the broker’s fee is a worthwhile investment.

• Visit every property yourself, in person. Before choosing Airbnb, I had a realtor send me photos of multiple properties that looked very different from what I saw with my own eyes. You also want to explore the neighborhood to see how accessible and comfortable it is for your needs (a topic we’ll get to soon).

• Don’t provide any deposit before signing a lease! I never made it this far in the process, but I’d assume you’d want to have someone like a notary bear witness to the signing, for added security. 

Best Neighborhoods, Ranked

A quick note: I’ve only lived in one city (Nairobi), and only two neighborhoods in the capital of Kenya (one of which I’ll never recommend, period). But I’ve thoroughly explored each Nairobi neighborhood, so I can confidently rank my top three for you based on accessibility, attractions, and atmosphere.

Kileleshwa: I may be biased, but I’d rank the neighborhood I lived in as number one. 

It’s very central and has a balance of residential and commercial vibes. There are pockets closed off from the busiest roads in the city, which means there’s less noise and relatively less traffic congestion. But if you needed to, you can get onto the two major roads (James Gichuru and Oloitoktok) that get you to the other popular neighborhoods for tourists and locals.

One of my favorite malls to visit in Kileleshwa was Junction Mall, which I could get to in less than 10 minutes (on a good traffic day) to buy groceries, run errands, and even have meetings in ArtCaffe. 

Gigiri: This is one of the priciest areas to live in, probably because most diplomats and wealthier expats settle here. I’d go to Gigiri for pedicures at Serenity Spa and to visit the Village Market, the largest shopping mall in Nairobi. I found so many products I used in the States at Village Market and would come to buy my organic groceries as well.

Gigiri is one of the most well-kept neighborhoods, probably because of who lives there (issues I discuss in my TED talk). However, it was too suburban for me. You’d like it as a neighborhood to raise a family, or if you really hate living close to city centers.

Parklands/Westlands: These are the business districts of Nairobi, hosting the PwC Tower (where a lot of my colleagues worked). If you want to be within walking distance from work or close to several restaurants and bars, this is the place for you.

I’d never live here. BUT I came here every other day to work at Urban Eatery, my favorite restaurant in Nairobi. It had everything I needed: coffee and pastries for breakfast, chimichurri steak for lunch, and cocktails for happy hour. I’d literally get there around 10 am and get home after 7 pm!

What You Should and Shouldn’t Pack Before You Go

I took way more than I should or needed to Kenya because I wasn’t familiar with all Nairobi had to offer. However, I know not all of you will end up there, so I’ll still give you my full packing list just in case you end up in a less-resourced part of the country. Instead of going through them one by one, you can simply download my list here.

Planning Your Daily Routine

Electricity & Hot Water

As much as I loved my apartment, it had occasional pitfalls when it came to amenities. Some days I’d wake up with only cold water, or no running water at all. At least three times a month the power would go out, which meant I couldn’t charge my cell phones or use appliances I needed to prepare for the day.

Most renovated apartments have backup generators, but you should plan for interruptions like these that may delay your morning routine. Some troubleshooting to consider in advance are:

• asking your landlord if you can install an instant shower heater (popular in Kenya);

• charging devices, ironing, and prepping meals the night before.

WiFi

In my experience, high-speed internet connection wasn’t a guarantee in Nairobi or while visiting the cities of Mombasa and Voi (in the south of Kenya). I worked both from home and cafes a lot, and every location had the same issues: slow upload and download speeds, and poor connection even in Nairobi’s business district. 

I’d highly recommend purchasing a reliable mobile hotspot and taking it with you wherever you go in Kenya. Go to this page and scroll down for a list of reliable international mobile data plans available in Kenya and multiple countries that you can connect to your hotspot device.

Transportation

Driving may be difficult for you if you’re not familiar with driving on the left side of the road (as they do in Kenya). If that’s the case, your best option for safety is using a ride-sharing app like Uber or Bolt. 

A typical ride from my apartment to other parts of Nairobi’s city center was $2-$3 maximum. When I visited Gigiri, the price moved up to at least $5 a ride or higher, depending on whether it was peak or off-peak hours. 

While this option is relatively cheap and more comfortable than using boda boda or matatus, I’ve had some uncomfortable experiences with ride-sharing apps. For one, drivers can sometimes cancel on you unexpectedly if they don’t feel it’s worth their while financially. This especially happens when you’re traveling longer distances and traffic is severe. As a woman, I often felt uneasy traveling alone, mostly during the night. 

I strongly recommend sharing your trip with someone you trust and who lives in the same city as you, so someone knows whether you’ve made it to your destination safely. I’d also avoid traveling alone as much as you can if you’re a woman. 

Laundry 

One of the things I loved about my apartment in Nairobi is that it included laundry service for a small additional charge. Whenever I needed to, I’d call the reception desk to ask someone to come pick up my laundry from my apartment unit, and within a few hours, I’d have them delivered back to me cleaned and folded. It might take 24 hours depending on the weather since clothing is dried outside.

Some apartments come equipped with a washer and dryer, and you’d just have to factor in additional costs for energy usage at home. Otherwise, you can hire an external company to pick up your items for you. I won’t recommend a service in this post since I haven’t tested them, and can’t give you an honest review of services. 

Culture and Community

Honestly, it took me a while to develop strong relationships with the locals I met in Nairobi. From my perspective, Kenyans (in Nairobi) tend to be very reserved and stick to their small circle of friends they’ve known for a long time. I would have had trouble breaking into those tight-knit groups if I didn’t know a friend from the U.S. with relatives living in the city. However, everyone’s experiences may differ depending on where in the country you plan to settle.

Co-working spaces are great for casual networking and developing relationships with like-minded people. I’d highly recommend Nairobi Garage, which has locations in Kilimani, Westlands, Karen, and Spring Valley. They also host great events for anyone interested in tech jobs or the local startup industry.

Ikigai Nairobi is my favorite place to go when I need a quiet, distraction-free, and aesthetically-pleasing environment to work in. Their Westlands location is the most scenic due to lots of outdoor spaces. You can also visit the Riverside location, which has great restaurants nearby.

Take advantage of the high-speed inter-county railway to travel between Nairobi and Mombasa, with several other stops in between as you go south of the country. I preferred traveling first class, which costs roughly $25 one way for adults (a child’s ticket costs half that price). You can take a look at my journey throughout the country on my YouTube channel.

Riding camel back on a beach in Mombasa

Summary

I’m glad I took the opportunity to live in Kenya, despite how short the period was. There were highs and lows, but I don’t regret making that decision to move. Like most countries, you’ve got to have a clear, strategic plan before making the leap 8,500 miles across the Atlantic. With the right preparation, I’m positive a move to Kenya will be as life-changing for you as it was for me.